Hammond, IN to Beardstown, IL

July 31, August 1, August 2, 2017

Hammond, IN

At first light, we leave the slip in South Haven.  Once again we have been blessed with exceptional weather and decide to cross Lake Michigan toward Chicago.  For most of the crossing, the winds are calm and the water is smooth.  Our destination for tonight is Hammond, IN where we will un-step our mast and make plans for our visit to Chicago.  Harrah’s Horseshoe Casino, a floating casino, is within Hammond Marina.  This is a large marina, (over 800 slips).  It is a nice facility with excellent slip fees, clean facilities, and a laundry.  

Harrah's Horseshoe Casino
Hammond, IN

After checking in, we have a quiet dinner aboard and head to bed early after a long day on the water.  The next morning is spent researching Chicago marinas and arranging to have our mast taken down.  We decide to stay at Du Sable Harbor due to its location.  From there, we will easily be able to access the attractions that we want to visit.  However, right now we are in need of provisioning and have read that there is a Wal-Mart nearby.  After talking with some local slip holders, we learn that about a mile over the bridge, we will find Wal-Mart and a few other stores.  We definitely can use the exercise, so we walk over the bridge, an easy walk, until we cross the road and must descend a steep embankment to get to the parking lot.  We shop and then call an Uber so that we can get our purchases back to the boat.  Peggy is our Uber driver and she tells us she was a little surprised that she had a fare from the grocery store to the Casino….she probably thought we used our winnings to buy our groceries for the week.  After returning to the boat, I do the laundry while Dave does some boat polishing.  We noticed another boat flying an AGLCA flag, so after dinner we stop by to introduce ourselves.  Richard and Mary, aboard “Desert Cruisers”, are from Tucson, AZ, hence the name of their boat.  They have encountered a few engine problems, so they are at Hammond Marina until their boat is repaired.  Wednesday is spent organizing and cleaning “At Last”, inside and out.  For dinner, we decide to walk next door to check out the Horseshoe Casino.  It is a small casino, especially in comparison to Foxwoods and Mohegan Sun Casinos back home.  It is not crowded at all.  After sharing a wood-fired pizza, we explore a bit.  We have a few glasses of wine at Jack Binion’s Steak House on the top floor of Horseshoe Casino while enjoying a nice view of Lake Michigan.  After all, we saw a report on the NBC evening news tonight that stated older people who drink 3-4 glasses of wine per day are less likely to get Alzheimer’s.  Of course, cirrhosis will probably kill us first if we follow that regiment! We chat with our waitress and another dinner patron who make suggestions as to what we should do in Chicago.  Then it’s back to the boat and a good night’s rest before heading to the windy city…..which turns out to be our kind of town!

August 3-August 6, 2017

Chicago, IL

Sunrise at Hammond Marina

We have a 9:00 am appointment to un-step the mast so we head over to the work dock at 8:30 am.  I walk to the office to check out and to retrieve my $20 gate key deposit while Dave readies the boat for lowering the mast.  The workers arrive around 9:30 and under Dave’s supervision, the mast is lowered and secured in place.  

Unstepping the Mast

Coming Down

All Secure

Next stop….Chicago.  It is a short ride to the city, about 14 miles, but it is windy and a bit overcast.  The water is much choppier than it has been the past few days.  We soon see the Chicago skyline and by noon we enter Du Sable Harbor and find our slip.  We are on a T-head and have an amazing view of the skyline and Navy Pier.  After checking in and dealing with an electrical post problem and pumping out, we make plans for our visit.  We decide to purchase a GO City Pass which will us to visit 5 attractions for a savings of 55% and a promise to not have to wait in long lines. We are going to be playing the tourist role for the next few days.

First Glimpse of Chicago Skyline

Getting Clearer

Columbia Yacht Club in Du Sable Harbor

 

Looking Toward Lake Michigan From a Dock in
Du Sable Harbor

August 4, 2017

Friday

We awaken to a gray day that is quite chilly, definitely jeans and sweater weather.  Our first stop is Navy Pier, about a mile walk from our marina.  Here, we catch the Hop-On Hop-Off Big Bus.  This bus arrives at designated stops every 15-20 minutes, so you can get on or off wherever you wish.  Stops include Willis Tower and Skydeck (formerly known as the Sears Tower), Millennium Park, Alder Planetarium, John Hancock Center and Chicago 360, Museum Campus and Navy Pier as well as many others.  We ride on the top deck where it is cold, but the view is the best.  Our guide, Raphael is very informative.  He supplies us with lots of historical facts and information about Chicago’s architecture, which includes every imaginable type of skyscraper as well as buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. We travel down the Magnificent Mile, with its world class boutiques, outdoor festivals, dining and entertainment….very upscale.  We decide to take the complete 2-hour tour in order to determine which sites we really want to see.  After arriving at Navy Pier, we walk back to the boat to warm up.  We have lunch and bundle up, even Dave puts on his fleece jacket, and we head back to Navy Pier to catch another Hop on Hop off bus.  Our destination is Willis Tower with its famous ledge.  It is a 110-story, 1450-foot skyscraper.  It was actually constructed as a collection of nine separate buildings, planted together in a unifying square.  These “tubes” are all the same width, but they are diverse in height.  Its design was actually inspired by a pack of cigarettes. The views from the Skydeck, which span up to four states (Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, and Indiana), are spectacular.  The wait to get into the elevator is a bit longer than expected, but we finally reach the observation deck on the 103^rd floor.  After enjoying the panoramic views of the city, Dave and I head to “The Ledge”…a glass balcony that extends four feet outside the 103^rd floor.  Yes, we wait in line some more, it’s worth it as we step out onto the ledge and gaze down over 1350 feet.  I have the photos to prove it. 

View From Skydeck Willis (Sears) Tower

Another View

And Another....

A Selfie at Willis Tower

Dave on the Ledge in Willis Tower

Gail Conquering Her Fear of Heights

We hop back on the bus and get off at Millennium Park, one of the many areas of green space that Chicago has preserved.  The park is known for its free concerts, garden shows, film and dance festivals, and of course, Crown Fountain and Cloud Gate.  We spend time walking through the Park and take pictures of Cloud Gate, “the Bean”.  This structure is composed of 200 stainless steel plates and weighs 200 tons.  We also visit Crown Fountain, an interactive work of public art and video sculpture.  The fountain is a pair of 50-foot-tall sculptures with LED screens and water spouts encased in glass bricks. The images on the screens are ordinary Chicagoans.  

Cloud Gate and the Bean

Dave's Reflection in the Bean

Crown Fountain

Then it’s back on the bus for our return trip to Navy Pier.  We are delayed a bit in returning because we are caught in a traffic jam due to an incident at Lollapalooza, a four-day music festival, which is taking place in Grant Park.  Over 400,000 people attend this festival. We can actually hear the music from our boat slip at night.  But, alas, neither Dave nor I recognize any of the musicians at the event.  We are definitely showing our ages.  We complete our day of sightseeing at Harry Caray’s Tavern.  Then it’s a walk back to the boat to relax and warm up.

August 5, 2017

Saturday

Today we take an early cruise through Chicago on the Architectural Boat Tour.  After our land tour through the city yesterday, we decided to learn more about Chicago’s architecture by taking a cruise on the river.  This tour, narrated by a knowledgeable guide, brings us along the three branches of the Chicago River. Chicago is the birthplace of the skyscraper and every style of a skyscraper since the 1930s is represented here. We see more than 40 buildings and learn about major events such as the Chicago Fire that helped to shape the architectural history of Chicago.  The John Hancock Building, the Wrigley Building, Trump Tower, the Aon Center, the Willis Tower, the Old Post Office Building, Marina City, the Merchandise Mart and many others are included in the tour.  It is an excellent, informative experience and we highly recommend this tour.

Examples of Chicago's Various Architectural Styles

First Bridge along the Magnificent Mile
Very low....hence the need to unstep our mast

Mercantile Building

John Hancock Building

Marina City

Another Bridge on the Magnificent Mile

Centennial Fountain

Willis (Sears) Tower

Wrigley Building

Interesting Perspective

For lunch, we walk back to the boat.  We are certainly getting our exercise in Chicago.  We decide to walk to Adler Planetarium, a 2-mile walk along the River Walk.  After viewing two shows and enjoying the exhibits we “Divvy” back to the harbor.  Bicycle racks with Divvy Bikes are positioned throughout the city.  You simply pick up your bike from one rack and return it to another when you reach your destination.  What a hoot!  It’s sad to say I haven’t ridden a bike in years, and it was quite a feat dodging all the walkers, joggers, Segway riders, and other bikers.

After 2-long days of sight seeing, while relaxing on the stern of “AT Last”, we meet Stacie and Chris, a young couple, who are paddle boarding by our boat.  We invite them aboard for our famous QACs. They live and work in Chicago and are interested in the Great Loop experience.  We spend a pleasant time chatting and learning about their work and boating experiences.  Chris has participated in the Chicago-Mack race numerous times.  Stacie shares good information with me about a nearby grocery store, Mariano’s, a ten minute walk from the harbor, as well as where I can find a CVS.  As they are getting ready to leave, another couple, Suzanne and Paul, stops by.  They have noticed “At Last” and would love to see her.  They are “boat shopping” as they are planning to retire in 2019 and are interested in doing the Great Loop.  We invite them aboard and give them a tour of our trawler.  Suzanne and Paul are avid sailors and are part of the crew aboard “Lucy”.  They had a race today and will also be racing tomorrow.  They belong to the Columbia Yacht Club.  CYC’s clubhouse is a ship in Du Sable Harbor. 

When our guests leave, we relax and around 10:00 pm, we are treated to an awesome fireworks display at Navy Pier.  During the summer, Navy Pier has fireworks every Wednesday and Saturday.  And this particular Saturday we have front-row seats.

Saturday Night Fireworks from Navy Pier

August 6, 2017

Sunday

Today we organize the boat.  Dave finishes waxing and I clean the “house”.  After lunch we walk to CVS and Mariano’s, the grocery store suggested by Lisa.  It is about a fifteen- minute walk.  Along the way, we pass through another beautifully landscaped park....another example of Chicago's preservation of as much green space as possible.  Mariano’s is a 2-story grocery.  It is quite strange to me that it is necessary to take an elevator, cart and all, to get to the deli and the produce department.  You can tell I am not a city girl.  The trip is well worth it.  The selection at the market is excellent and we pack as much into our 3 cloth grocery bags as we can.  More exercise for us as we walk back to the boat loaded down with our bags.  Upon returning to “At Last”, we find a note from Paul and Suzanne inviting us to meet them at CYC.  We are excited to see this interesting Clubhouse.  We are given a tour and Paul explains the history behind this ship and the other ships that have served as the Columbia Yacht Club for the past 125 years. The first ship was the Pere Marquette, a 193-foot wood and iron-plated steamboat.  This ship was a worthy and accommodating home for CYC from 1925 until 1937.  She was replaced by a 213-foot, former side-wheel excursion steamer, the S.S. Florida, and she was upgraded to house the Club. In May of 1955 a galley fire caused the Florida to sink at the dock, but members raised and restored her for nearly another 30 years of service.  Today, CYC is housed in a 372-foot former ice-cutting Canadian ferry, the Q.S.M.V. Abegweit.  The Club purchased the ship which was going to be sold for scrap and after several months, the Abby began welcoming members and their guests in the summer of 1983.  Since then the Abby has provided a fine home for those who, not unlike those first members in 1892, share a passion for sailing and camaraderie.  As stated on its website, after 125 years, the Columbia Yacht Club retains the vital and energetic spirit that began with a small group of sailors envisioning a yacht club on a tiny scow.  Dave and I thoroughly enjoy our tour of the entire ship...the rail deck, lower salon and lobby, member's bar, dining room, aft deck, upper salon, library, board room, and we even visit the bridge. We are very appreciative of the time that our new friends have taken to share their Club with us.

CYC - a  Former Canadian Ice Cutter

Paul and Suzanne

After our visit to CYC, we have dinner at the restaurant on our dock and then to head to Navy Pier to enjoy our last night in Chicago.  Navy Pier is a 3,300-foot-long pier on the Chicago shoreline of Lake Michigan.  It was built in 1916 and was originally known as the Municipal Pier.  The pier has under gone several phases of redevelopment to make it a more contemporary public space that offers expanded arts and cultural programming as well as dining.  It is at Navy Pier where you can find many sight seeing excursions for touring the city. 

Navy Pier

Navy Pier

Centennial Wheel

Looking up at the Wheel

Navy Pier at Night

Chicago  from the Wheel

Inside the Gondola
Now we can join the Blue Man Crew

The Centennial Wheel was welcomed to the Pier in 2016. It is 195 feet tall and has 42 climate controlled gondolas.  We use our Go City Pass and ride the Centennial Wheel.  It is really quite beautiful to see the city from the top of the Wheel. After riding the Wheel, twice, (it was part of the package) we walk back to the boat.  After 4 days in Chicago, we are thoroughly exhausted, but we have enjoyed every minute of our visit. 

August 7, 2017

Monday

We get ready to leave Chicago this morning. It has been an awesome visit.  We truly love the city and have learned a lot.  For example, did you know that its name The Windy City has nothing to do with the weather?  It received this moniker because of all the hot air bellowing from politicians.  Very interesting.  We are sad to leave, but are looking forward to the next part of our journey.  During our stay here, we walked over 20 miles.  Living in a city really is healthy. 

We leave our slip at about 10:30 and head to our first lock in Chicago Harbor.  We have to wait about 20 minutes, but then we enter the lock with just one other boat.  It is only a 4-foot drop and we enter the Magnificent Mile, this time in our own boat.  We are glad that we took the tour so that we don’t have to worry about snapping photos and can enjoy the scenery.  I neglected to mention earlier that on this route, you go under 40 bridges in about 5 miles. 

Lighthouse at Chicago Harbor Entrance

Tall Ship "Windy"

A Fountain in front of Tump Tower Sprays across the River

Flower Boxes Along the Magnificent Mile

The Mile soon ends and we continue our journey south.  We are taking the Chicago Sanitary Ship Canal to the Illinois River and we will be encountering large barges being powered by tows.  As we continue along, our landscape becomes much more industrial and the barges and tows become more abundant.  It is time for us to learn the new lingo for conversing with tow captains.  Their maneuverability is limited so it is imperative that you identify yourself and let them know your intentions regarding passing…on the one whistle or two whistle.  Dave quickly catches on.  

Encountering our first tow and barge(s)

Loaded the Barges

We continue on our way until we reach Romeo, IL at around 4:00.  An official looking boat hails Dave and tells him we will not be allowed to traverse the permanent electric barrier that has been put in place to control the Asian carp population in order to keep them out of Lake Michigan. The area is currently closed daily from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. while tests are being conducted to determine if carp are attaching themselves to the bottom of the barges.  We pull over to a wall and wait for two hours until the area is opened again.  There are warning signs in the area and all the guidebooks caution you not to enter or put your hands or feet in the water under any circumstances.  Life preservers are required as you cross through the area.  I also read that if you fall overboard, even the Coast Guard will not attempt a rescue until you are 450 ft. from the electrified area.  I’m pleased to tell you, Dave and I passed through unscathed.  

Warning sign 

Conducting Tests

Leaving the Electrified Area

At Lockport, we come to our second lock.  After speaking with the locks man, we are told that there is a barge coming up river and we will have to wait until it clears the lock.  It is a 45-minute wait until a tow with multiple barges clears the lock and we are allowed to enter.  The locking process takes about 25 minutes for us.  Floating bollards make locking easy for me as Dave does all the work.  Upon exiting the lock, we head to a free wall in Joliet.  We even have electricity for the night.

August 8, 2017

Tuesday

We leave the wall early Tuesday morning.  Yesterday we learned that patience is necessary when locking on the river system here.  All commercial vehicles have priority over pleasure craft and although the locks are 600-feet long, tows often have to split their loads and recreational boats must wait their turn.  There is no first come, first served order.  It is a beautiful day on the water.  Our goal for tonight is Ottawa where there is also a free dock available. 

Leaving Joliet

At about 8:00 am we come to our first lock for the day.  The Brandon Road Lock and Dam.  Although there are no barges in sight, we are told we must wait for the lock to be filled.  By 8:30 we are tied up in the lock and we experience a 38-foot drop in water levels.  

First Lock of the Day
We are lowered 38 feet

Dave, doing all the work

Our next descending lock is the Dresden Lock and Dam.  We arrive at 10:15, are in the lock by 10:30 and leave the lock by 10:50.  Wow….we are really moving along without delays.  At about 1:30, our bubble is burst.  As we approach Snug Harbor Marina, a tow captain hails Dave to tell him another tow is headed in our direction and the passage way is narrow.  We are close to the Marseilles Lock and Dave calls ahead to find out the situation.  Poor Dave, he asks me how to pronounce the name of the lock.  Of course, I say Mar-say.  When he hails the lock, no one replies.  Finally, they do and we learn it will be at least 2-hours until we can get through.  Oh, yes, we also learn the correct pronunciation is Mar-sells.  Eeks…what a horrible sound to a French teacher’s ears.  I’m sure they thought Dave was a bit of a snob.  We decide to go back to the Snug Harbor Marina dock and tie up there to wait.  It is a restaurant and bar and so we must be patrons in order to stay at the dock. We split a burger and have a soda and wait.  About 3:30, Dave calls the lock again and the locks man tells him to come down to the pool (the area in front of the lock) to wait.  It will be a bit longer.  We head down, but there is no where to anchor or tie up so Dave has to sit at idle and hold the boat in place with the throttle and bow thrusters.  There are two barges also waiting.  We know it is going to be a long wait.  Patience, patience, patience.  With lots of time to spare, I open my kindle and read.  One of the barges is so big that only its load can fit in the lock.  The tow pushes it in, the load locks down, the load is winched out of the lock at the bottom and then the lock is refilled for the tow to go down and pick up its load.  It is on this lock down that they take pity on us and allow us in with the pusher.  We have waited a total of 5 ½ hours to lock through this one lock.  Did I say patience?  We arrive at the dock at about 8:00 pm.  There are two other boats there already, but they kindly move forward so that we can also fit.  We meet a nice couple and their daughter, Theresa, who had watched Dave dock.  They really like our boat so they walk over to meet with us.  I give Theresa’s mom (I can’t remember her name) a tour.  We chat a bit and Theresa’s dad suggests we walk into town for a pizza.  We say it’s been a long day and will just remain on the boat.  Before I know it, Theresa’s mom, who disappeared for a moment, is back and handing me a container with pizza.  They had been having dinner from their favorite pizza place and wanted us to have the leftovers since we wouldn’t have a chance to order our own.  She claimed it is the best pizza around.  We thank her very much.  It is quite good and there is plenty left over for lunch tomorrow.  We head to bed knowing tomorrow will also be an interesting day of travel.

August 9, 2017

Wednesday

Beautiful Sunrise in At Last's Wake

Morning Fog

We leave the dock at 6:45 am.  Our goal for today is to reach Peoria, IL, which is about and 80-mile trip.  The sunrise is beautiful and there is little traffic on the waterway.  We reach our first lock of the day, Starved Rock Lock & Dam.  This is our 6^th lock.  We arrive at 6:40 am, get into the lock at 7:05 am and are done locking at 7:25 am.  Life is good.  This is our only lock today.  However, while in the lock, the locks man tells us that our next lock, the Peoria Lock and Dam is a wicket lock/dam.  He explains that during low water the wickets are raised to dam the river and provide sufficient depths for navigation.  During high water the wickets are lowered to the bottom of the river to allow the traffic to pass over them without having to lock through. Currently, the wickets are down, but the river is getting low, so the wickets are being raised early tomorrow.  Raising them from the bottom of the river is a long process.  We are told that we need to pass through the lock/dam by 7:00 am or we will have to wait, perhaps until the next day.   We continue on our way to Peoria.  Along the way we pass several barges in tow. We also see several uprooted trees along the way.

About 60 miles into our journey, we enter Peoria Lake.  We stop at the Illinois Yacht Club for fuel and a pump out.  We take on 145 gallons.  This is our first fueling in over 500 miles.  IVY is a very nice yacht club that has transient slips and allows transients all  the privileges of its members.  Peoria is about 5 miles south of the Club.  We decide to continue on since we want to get an early start in order to pass through Peoria Lock and Dam before they close it.  We arrive at the town docks at about 3:30 pm.  There is only one other boat, a 32’ Maxum, just like the Chez Gail, on the long pier.  It is also doing the Loop.  We dock and settle in for the evening. A Taste of Peoria is taking place on the riverfront tonight, but we are exhausted.  I make dinner and we head to bed early.  We definitely want to get through the lock tomorrow.

August 10, 2017

Thursday

We are underway by 6:00 am in order to reach the Peoria Lock and Dam before it is closed.  Luckily, we arrive at the lock at 6:40 am.  They have already begun the process of raising the wickets from the bottom of the river.  Dave requests permission to pass and he is allowed to do so at a very slow speed.  It is very interesting to see the process and also it’s exciting to realize that we have just passed over a dam.  

Approaching Peoria Lock & Dam

Beginning to Raise the Wickets

First few wickets raised at the Peoria Wicket Lock & Dam

We continue on our way, encountering several large tows.  Dave is now very fluent in speaking the language of tow captains.  It’s a good thing I am not the captain.  I cannot understand anything they are saying over the VHF.  I read in one of my guidebooks that to sound like a tow captain, you have to put marbles in your mouth when you speak.  It really is that garbled sounding to me.  The weather today is absolutely beautiful.  We decide to travel another 80 or so miles to Beardstown.  Beardstown does not have a town dock or any other marina.  However, there is a tug service, Logston Tug, which allows you to dock on their work barge.  We arrive around 2:30 pm and dock behind another boat.  What an interesting stop.  This is a working tug service and we are actually tied up to a barge.  The charge is just a dollar a foot, but there are no services, which is fine with us.  

"At Last" tied to a working barge

The gentleman who helps us in tells Dave that the La Grange Lock and Dam will be closing tomorrow.  If we do not cross over it tomorrow before 6:00 am, we will have to wait at least a week to make a day crossing.  Not only is this lock raising its wickets as the Peoria Lock did, they are doing construction on the lock itself.  The only time the lock will be open is at night.  We thank him for the info and plan accordingly.  After a walk across the barges and up and down two sets of steep steps, we check in.  We are given a map and we walk to town.  We find a post office which we have been in search of for several days, go to the bank to get some rolls of quarters so I can do laundry at our next stop, and have a late lunch, early dinner at a Mexican restaurant.  The meal is good, but we bring more than half of it back to the boat.  We both eat much less than we used to and are very conscious of not gaining back the weight we have lost.  After all, it is much easier to walk, bike and simply move around the boat now.  After dinner, we return to the boat.  We meet our neighbors, Chuck and Diane, who are on a 42’ Eagle named Bear.  They are from Maine and are also on the Loop although they tell us they are not members of AGLCA.  Earlier in the day we have made reservations at Grafton Harbor for 3 nights.  We need a day to clean “At Last”; she is a mess with all the bugs and locking, a day to relax, and possibly a day to rent a car to visit St. Louis.  Grafton is the last stop on the Illinois River.  When we leave Grafton, we will be entering the Mississippi River.  Before calling it a night, Dave calls the La Grange Lock and Dam to verify that we must be there by 6:00 am in order to pass through.  He is told that is correct, so we make plans to leave the dock between 4:30 and 5:00 am in order to arrive in time.  It will be interesting since none of the buoys are lit, the tows and barges run at night, and sunrise isn’t until 5:45 am.  We will be traveling in the dark!

Suttons Bay, MI to South Haven, MI

July 25 & 26, 2017

Suttons Bay, MI

Suttons Bay Marina is a great first stop for us.  This cozy village has unique stores and lots of good restaurants.  It has taken us about five hours to get here from Boyne City.  After docking we take a walk through the village and choose a pub for dinner.  Dave sees lots of motorcycles in front of the bar and tells me that bikers always know where the good food is.  We are not disappointed.  After dinner we walk a bit more and then return to the boat.  

Funky flower shop in town

We have forgotten how tiring a day on the water can be.  Dave checks the weather forecast and it looks as if we might be staying for another day.  Rain and high winds are in the picture for tomorrow.  Sure enough, we awaken to heavy rain and some wind.  We spend the day planning our itinerary for the next few stops, continue to organize the boat, and we get a little exercise when it finally begins to clear.  

A gray day

The forecast for tomorrow is a bit “iffy”.  We’ll wait until morning to make a decision as to whether or not we will leave.

July 27, 2017

Northport, MI

The skies are bright and sunny when we wake up.  Dave checks the weather and although the sun is shining, wind and bumpy seas  (2-3 ft. waves) are in the forecast.  We decide to head back down Grand Traverse Bay to Northport so that we are closer to Lake Michigan.  Before leaving, we take a walk to town for coffee.  We leave the dock, get our first pump out, and head down the bay.  It is a quick ride, only an hour and a half.  There are no slips available at the Northport Municipal Marina so we anchor.  This gives Dave the opportunity to try out his new 200 ft. anchor chain that he recently marked.  (No, we don’t need to use all 200 ft.)  After settling in at the anchorage, our first swim in Lake Michigan is in order.  (It’s actually Grand Traverse Bay.)  I brave the water first, using our new whale tails.  It is cool and refreshing.  At this point, I must confess.  This really isn’t my first swim since we got back to Michigan.  Last Sunday, we took the dinghy for a ride to try out the 15 HP motor we had bought in 2015.  It was a bit rainy and I had my rain jacket on with the hood up….blocking  my line of vision.  Upon returning to the boat, I missed my mark and instead of going around to land at the back of the boat as we usually do, I told Dave I would get off on the dock.  So remember, I haven’t been in a dinghy in 22 months, and I broke the cardinal rule of dinghy riding…..keep your center of gravity low.  As Dave pulled up to the dock, I stood up straight and tall, and sure enough, next thing I knew, I was in the water.  After surfacing, totally embarrassed, I climbed up the swim ladder back into the boat and took a nice hot shower.  Luckily, I didn’t have my cell phone in my pocket.  But I digress.  Back in the bay, Dave finally jumps in, but he doesn’t last long.  He thinks it’s a little chilly.  I worry he’s becoming a Floridian.  We have a relaxing evening and grill a spice-rubbed pork tenderloin for dinner with caprese and kale salad.  Delicious…..ah, the boating life.

July 28, 2017

Frankfort, MI

The weather gods are smiling on us.  Today’s forecast is excellent with little wind and smooth waters (at least until mid-afternoon).  We haul our anchor by 6:15 am and head towards Lake Michigan.  The morning sunrise is magnificent.  

Sunrise, leaving Northport anchorage

We have not set our destination for the day.  Instead, we decide to let the weather determine where we will end up tonight.  We are headed south.  Leland, South Manitou Island, and Frankfort are all possibilities.  As we near Leland, the weather continues to be beautiful, with low wind and little wave action, so we continue on.  The shoreline from Leland to Frankfort is part of Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore Park.  With its massive sand dunes, 480 ft. tall, its white beaches and a backdrop of forests, views from the lake are simply breathtaking.  According to the Waterway Guide, viewers of the ABC “Good Morning America” TV show voted Sleeping Bear Dunes as one of the Top Ten “Most Beautiful Places in America” in 2014 and in 2011.  As we continue along the Lake, we see beautiful houses built on the dunes with steep staircases leading to the lakeshore.  Using our binoculars, we can also make out dune buggies and ATVs scurrying around on the dunes.  

Massive Sand Dunes

Activity on the Dunes

Around 1:30, the wind picks up and the lake is beginning to get sloppy.  We have already been traveling for almost 7 hours so we head into Frankfort, on Betsie Lake, for the night.  

Betsie Lighthouse

What a great stop!  The marina is at the base of the town with the public library at the end of the park.  The town has everything you need….beaches, pubs, restaurants, hardware store, pharmacy, deli, and much more.  After securing the boat , I notice another boat that is waiting to dock is also flying the AGLCA flag.  This is the first fellow looper we have seen since we left Boyne City.  We say a quick “hello”, but, unfortunately, do not get to chat about our experiences.  We head into town for dinner and choose an Asian restaurant, Fusion.  After a cup of wonton soup and splitting an entrée, we head to the hardware store for a few items.  This True Value hardware store is a blast out of the past.  The aisles are less than 2 feet wide and every thing you can imagine is somewhere on the shelves.  Amazingly, the store clerks know exactly where everything is.  Then it is back to the boat.  In the park, directly in front of us, there is a Friday evening concert.  The group is excellent and it is fun to sit on the bow of “At Last” and enjoy the free entertainment.

July 29, 2017

White Lake:  Whitehall, Montague, MI

Although we love Frankfort and could easily stay here for a few more days, the weather window we now have is too good to pass up. Little wind and flat water are forecast for the next two days. Although there are some stops along the Lake that we had planned to make, Manistee and Ludington, for example, we feel we need to continue.  Again, we leave the slip by 6:15 am.  I believe we are the only ones awake in the marina, except, of course, for the fishermen.  Boats are everywhere, heading out onto the Lake Michigan. On land, people are fishing from the base of the lighthouse at the entrance to the channel.  Once again, the sunrise is gorgeous. 

Fishermen at work

Dawn on Lake Michigan

Pentwater is a possible destination for the night, but the Lake is like glass and the wind is almost non-existent, so we decide to make White Lake our next stop. It is located about 32 miles south of Pentwater.  We are going to dock at White Lake Municipal Harbor, located at the end of the 5-mile long, 1-mile across (at its widest point) lake. The entrance to the channel is extremely busy.  Boats are everywhere and the sides of the channel are lined with people watching the boating action.  Dave navigates us through and we head toward our marina for the night.  The lake is very pretty and extremely active.  We see jet skis, pontoon boats, sailboats, small cruisers, large cruisers, everything you can think of.  

Lighthouse on White Lake

We dock and secure the boat.  Across the dock from us, we notice that slip 34 is filled with sea grass.  I jokingly say to Dave, “Imagine if you went out this morning and when you came back you found your slip filled with that!”  I no sooner finish my sentence and the dockhands come running down the dock to explain to the captain of a 30 ft. O’Day that while they were gone, the grass had been blown into their slip.  The captain is able to get the bow of the boat into the slip and he and Dave use boat hooks to push the plants aside so that the sailboat can be docked.  However, as soon as they are in their slip, the wind blows the grass back into the boat.  Oh, well, another job for the dockhands. 

Oh, oh....lake grass in Slip #34

Success....for a little while!

The town of Whitehall is on one side of the lake and the town of Montague is on the other. We are exhausted after a 10-hour day.  We do not venture into either town.  Instead, we spend a quiet evening on “At Last”. 

Luxury homes on Montague side of White Lake

July 30, 2017

South Haven, MI

It is going to be another perfect cruising day on Lake Michigan.  We are up at 5:00 am again and prepare for our 6:15 am departure.  We head back down White Lake to the channel and enter Lake Michigan with the fishing boats.  Another splendid day with even flatter water than yesterday.  We must have done something right, because wind and high waves have been a non-issue for us.  We continue south and pass up the opportunity to stop in Grand Haven, Holland or Saugatuck, MI.  Along the way we grill burgers for lunch.  Nothing smells better than grilling on a boat.  We have a reservation in South Haven, located on the Black River, and we arrive in about 7 ½ hours.  There is a beach on either side of the channel entrance, and the boat activity is non-stop.  Our marina is located at the end of the channel and is just perfect.  According to the Waterway Guide, South Haven was recognized in 2012, by Yachting Magazine, as one of the “Top Ten Ports in the World.”   The marina is located in Riverfront Park and there is a scenic boardwalk—Harbor Walk—that winds along the riverfront.  

Channel entrance in South Haven

South Haven has a rich maritime history and the Michigan Maritime Museum is located here.  
After checking in, we chat with several people on the dock.  They have noticed our AGLCA flag and want to know about our trip.  I check out the laundry facilities, as I need to do a load or two before we leave.  Dave and I walk into town which has a bustling main street, filled with activity.  We take a walk along the river front and as we are passing the South Haven Yacht Club, Dave notices

Marina

another Pacific Trawler.  Since purchasing “At Last”, we have only seen one other, “Harbor Reach” which belongs to Bill and Mary Russell from Wickford, RI.  The name of this boat is “Terrapin”.  We approach two gentlemen on the porch of the Club and ask if the captain of the boat is around. 

Rich Maritime History

He is not, but they say that they will tell him we are docked at South Haven Marina if they see him.  We return to the boat to enjoy a QAC (quiet afternoon cocktail) on the back of the boat.  About an hour later Cam and Lisa stop by our boat.  Cam is the owner of “Terrapin”.  His father purchased it in the 70’s.  He and Lisa come aboard and we talk about our boats and the differences between them.  Cam is very impressed with our new decking as well as other upgrades we have made to "At Last" and takes some photos as he is looking to make a few changes on his boat.  We have a very pleasant visit.  It is fun to meet another Pacific Trawler owner as there are not too many of us around.  Unfortunately, neither Dave nor I took a picture of Terrapin.  I spend the rest of the evening doing laundry, cleaning up, and getting ready for tomorrow.  We plan to cross the lake to Chicago as the weather is going to great again! 

Square Top Sail Sloop:  under sail and passing by marina entrance

Okeechobee, FL to Suttons Bay, MI

Restarting North America's Great Loop

July 17-July 24, 2017

As the well-known quote goes:  “Life is what happens while you’re busy making other plans".  When we left “At Last” in Boyne City, MI in September, 2015 we were planning to return in the spring of 2016 to complete our amazing Great Loop journey.  Alas, we had a few bumps in the road as life got in the way and our trip was delayed.  But after 22 months we are finally on our way! On July 17th, after packing, closing up the house, and getting my final infusion, we head to Michigan.  We spend our first night at my sister's in St. Petersburg, but then it is full speed ahead to Boyne City, MI.  We arrive at 9:00 a.m. on Thursday, July 20th and are so excited when we see "At Last" in the water.

Our first sighting of "At Last" 

We are just in time for Dave to captain the boat as our surveyor finishes up the survey we are having done for insurance purposes.  It is so thrilling to be on the water again, even if it is for only 20 minutes.  

We spend the next few days provisioning the boat and waiting for Boyne Boat Yard to complete the last few items to get "At Last" in perfect shape for her long awaited cruise.  On Monday, the boat is hauled for a final time to have her thru-hull replaced and then she is put back in the water.  We walk into town for our final night in Boyne City.  It is a great little town located at the south east end of Lake Charlevoix.  Not far from town, Boyne Mountain, a resort known for its Michigan skiing, golf and spa, is located.  We visited it when we drove up in April to check on "At Last". We found Boyne City and its surrounding to be a beautiful spot and should be considered as a destination for "loopers" who want to traverse Lake Charlevoix instead of just stopping in Charlevoix after passing under the US Highway 31 Bridge.

Charlie

July 25, 2017

Today is the day!  We are leaving!  I make one final run to get ice and a few last provisions.  Our caretaker of "At Last" for the last 22 months, Charlie, from Boyne Boat Yard comes to say good-bye.  The yard has taken good care of our boat and we are truly thankful for that.  We leave our slip and head toward Charlevoix.  We visited Charlevoix in April when we made our road trip to Michigan.  It is a resort community with several attractions and its harbor is considered to be among the most beautiful and protected in all the Great Lakes.  In April, we made it a point to visit the "Fairy and Mushroom Houses", which according to the Waterway Guide, resemble story book fantasies of whimsical, irregular stone houses with wave-like roof lines that were built in early 1900s by local architect and Realtor Earl Young.

Mushroom House-Charlevoix

Today, however, we will not be stopping in town.  We are anxious to head south on the east side of Lake Michigan.  We arrive at the US Highway 31 bridge in just enough time for the 12:30 opening.

US Highway 31 Bridge

We have decided travel toward Grand Traverse Bay.  This bay is 28 miles long and 10 miles wide and is divided by a narrow peninsula creating an east and west arm.  We decide to travel down the bay to Suttons Bay which is on the Leelanau Peninsula.  The weather is absolutely magnificent....bright blue skies, calm water, little to no wind.  "At Last" handles beautifully on her first voyage since 2015.  Dave and I quickly adjust to our cruising modes, and line handling, chart and instrument reading and living aboard become second nature.  We cruise down the bay, past Northport, to Suttons Bay and take a slip for the night at Suttons Bay Village Marina.  This municipal marina is set in a park with a beach right next door. Many shops and restaurants are just a block from the marina.  We celebrate our return to boating by enjoying a QAC (quiet afternoon cocktail) on the stern of "At Last" and then take a walk to town for a bite to eat.  We have travelled 41.5 miles today and finally, all is right with the world.

Storing "At Last" for the winter

Another look at Baie Fine

August 27-September 11, 2015

A final update on the status of "At Last" for the season

After leaving Mackinac Island, we traveled to Petoskey, MI where we fueled up, pumped out, and spent the night.  This was the first time we had to put fuel in our tanks since Lake Champlain and we were still 1/2 full.  Our ride to Petoskey was perfect, great water, no wind, and the water was so clear that even when our depth sounder indicated 32 ft., we could see the bottom.  It was amazing!

On the 28th, we headed to Charlevoix.  As we headed out, we were surprised to encounter a very sloppy ride, but Captain Dave skillfully motored us into Charlevoix.  After much research and many phone calls, we had decided to leave "At Last" for the winter at the Boyne Boatyard which is located at the end of Lake Charlevoix in Boyne City.  It was a beautiful ride on the lake.  Stacy, the office manager, met us at the dock and drove us to the facility where "At Last" is being stored for the winter.  Yes, she is going to be hauled and transported to the heated facility.  We were very impressed with Boyne Boatyard.  We met Charlie, the manager, and Brad, the mechanic who made us feel very comfortable about leaving our trawler here for the winter.  Charlie even lent us one of the yard's trucks to use until we picked up our rental car.  Boyne City is a very nice little town with many shops and restaurants.  We arrived on a Friday and "Strolling the Streets" was in full force with music, street vendors and open shops.

Strolling the Streets in Boyne City, MI

We spent several days cleaning and getting "At Last" ready for her winter storage.  We decided to rent a car from the airport in Traverse City, MI and take a side trip to Connecticut and Rhode Island on our way back to Florida to visit friends and family.  We left "At Last" in Boyne City on September 3rd in the capable hands of Charlie and Boyne Boatyard.  We traveled about 2700 miles by car and arrived in Okeechobee, FL on Friday, September 11th.  We spent the day removing hurricane shutters and getting the house ready to be "lived in" again. It was sad to see the new dock in the back yard without "At Last" to occupy her, but she will be there again next winter.

So as the first leg of our Great Loop Adventure ends, we are so grateful for having had the opportunity to experience this journey.  It has been amazing.  Since April 17, 2015, we have traveled over 2800 miles, seen incredible vistas, met wonderful people, forged many new friendships, exchanged hundreds of boat cards and have had the best time of our lives.  We are looking forward to continuing our trip next spring.  Our plan is to spend some more time in the Lake Michigan and Lake Superior area and then head down through Chicago and into the river system sometime in August.  We look forward to meeting a whole new group of Loopers as well as hope to make contact with some friends we have met this year.  We thank everyone who contributed to making this journey the trip of a lifetime for us.  Have a wonderful holiday season and a great winter.  Safe travels to all!

Just as an added note:  As you can all imagine, Dave was having "withdrawal" from no longer living aboard "At Last" and on September 14, 2015, just 3 days after arriving home in Florida, he flew to Maryland to transport our 29' sailboat, "Sojourn", to Okeechobee.  He is solo on this trip and as of the writing of this post, he is still about 3 days away from getting here.  It has been a long 5 week journey for him, but you know Dave, he is having the time of his life.  I can't wait for him to get home and when he does, we will have a boat to put at our dock.

Sojourn