Kimmswick, MO to Nashville, TN

August 22, 2017 to August 30, 2017


August 22, 2017

Boats moored on barges at Hoppie's
Taken from Cawley's drone 

A passing tow and barges

We are up at the crack of dawn.  During the night a 38' steel-hulled Chris Craft has docked in front of us.  There is not much room off our bow between her and "At Last", but Dave expertly maneuvers our boat from the dock without so much as a "hiccup".  After waiting for a north bound tow to pass, we are on our way at 6:30 am.  It is a gray day with some rain and drizzle.  We are planning to do about 100 miles today, so we are in for a long day.  Tara and Cawley are going to travel with us, but they plan to leave from Hoppie's a bit later as their catamaran is much faster.  Our goal for today is Little Diversion Channel at Mile 48.8.  We have been told that along the way there a very turbulent areas due to the bend-weir dams, but we have not yet experienced any difficulties.  We pass several tows and barges, but our passings are easy and uneventful.  Around noon, Cawley and Tara pass us and take the lead.  They have definitely slowed down considerably to travel with us.  At about 4:00 pm, we approach the anchorage in Little Diversion Channel.  It is a secluded area off the river with 10' depths and plenty of swing room.  By 4:30 pm, we are both anchored.  It is a great anchorage. Later in the evening, Cawley and Tara join us for cocktails and then it is dinner and off to bed.  Tomorrow will be another long day. We will be leaving the Mississippi and entering the Ohio River where the going will be much slower since the current will be against us. 

"At Last" on anchor in Little Diversion Channel

"At Last" and "Cat in Heat" in Little Diversion Channel
(Notice the tow and barge at the mouth of the channel.)

August 23, 2017

We are planning another 90-mile day today, so once again, we set out at sunrise.  Cawley is having trouble with his generator, so he will head to Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, KY today.  That would be a 145-mile day and we cannot make it.  Our goal for tonight is Paducah, KY.  Additionally, we need to traverse two locks and once we reach the Ohio River, we will be traveling against the current.  

Mouth of Little Diversion Channel at sunrise

Sunrise

At 10:00 am, we enter the Ohio River at mile 981.  We will be traveling upstream and will be taking the Cumberland River route to Lake Barkley, but first we will be stopping for the night in Paducah, KY. 

Queen of the Mississippi
Seen along our way to Paducah

Is that a sandy beach?

The mouth of the Ohio is extremely busy with commercial traffic.  There are many barges tied to shore as well as moored in the river.  Our speed has dropped from 10.2 knots to 6.8 knots.  At mile 964.5, we encounter our first lock of the day.  This is the Olmsted Lock and Dam and it is currently under construction and will replace Locks 52 and 53.  The locks are complete and work on the dam is 80 percent complete.  Olmsted Lock will greatly reduce tow and barge delays through the busiest stretch of river in America's inland waterways. The project has been underway for almost 30 years and its estimated cost is about $2.9 billion.  By 2018, the locks and dam should be operational and by 2022, the locks and dams of 52 and 53 will be removed and the project will be complete.  We arrive at the lock at 12:05 pm, but we must wait our turn to "drive" through the lock. There are several tows and barges ahead of us and we are told to wait until "a hole" can be found to allow us to pass through.
For about an hour and a half, we drift and watch the activity going on around us.  It is a very busy construction zone.  

Busy construction site at the Olmsted Lock and Dam

Olmsted Lock & Dam

At 1:25 pm, we are finally granted permission to pass through the lock.  We are thankful that we did not have to wait any longer.  

Passing through the new lock

This work boat is right behind us as we pass through the lock.
It is so close, it looks like I can touch it.

After exiting the lock, Dave notices that our speed has dropped to 4.2 knots.  He determines that the current is only about 1.9 knots and suspects that something has fouled the prop.  He puts the boat in reverse and eventually is able to spin the prop.  Luckily, whatever was on our prop is gone because we are now back up to 6.8 knots.  About 35 miles upstream we reach Lock and Dam 52.  This is the first lock where the lockmaster loops our lines around a fixed bollard and returns the lines to us.  We need a 50' line on the bow and one on the stern.  Although I try, there is no way I can toss my line on the stern up to the lockmaster.  Dave saves me and after securing his line on the bow, he tosses the line for me.  We are lifted 26' and then continue towards Paducah.  Five miles upstream, we arrive in Paducah.  It is almost 7:00 pm and the "new" town dock in Paducah is closed.  The town opened the dock (after many delays) for the eclipse, but due to electrical problems, it has closed it. Some of the dock boards are torn up and there is yellow caution tape around the dock.  There really is no other place for us to go for the night, so Dave pulls in and docks at the end of the Paducah docks.  No one is around and we are not bothered for the evening.  We have a late dinner and then head to bed. Tomorrow should be an easy day. 

August 24-April 27, 2017

We depart from the Paducah dock at 6:15 am.  We travel about 12 miles upstream to the Cumberland River.  We immediately notice a change in scenery. The river winds its way through a pretty region of rolling hills and forests.  

Horses on the shore

The commercial traffic is much less than on the Ohio.  We will only be on the Cumberland for 33 miles.  We enter the river at 8:50 am.  At mile 14, we see our first tow and barge.  This video should give you an idea of just how long some of these tows are.  Click below.

Passing a tow and barges on the Cumberland River

At mile 30.6, we arrive at the Barkley Lock & Dam.  This is our only lock on the Cumberland River. There is a 57' lift at this lock.  It is not quite as high a lift as the Carillon Lock, a 65' lift, that we went through in Canada.  After the lock we will enter Lake Barkley with its 134 mile long shoreline. While we are in the lock, Dave leaves a sign that we have been here.

The bollard in Barkley Lock & Dam

At 2:00 pm we arrive at the Green Turtle Bay Resort in Grand Rivers, KY.  This is a great resort which promotes the "Water-Way-of-Life".  The resort has two restaurants, a spa and fitness center, an indoor pool, two outdoor pools, a ship's store, a laundry and boat rentals.  They also supply a courtesy car for short trips around town.

Entrance to Green Turtle Bay

Commonwealth Yacht Club

As soon as we arrive, we realize there are several other "looper" boats there.  Some are people we have met in Grafton, Alton, and at Hoppie's and others are new friends.  After checking in, I immediately head to the laundry.  At 5:30, a group of 15 loopers gather for a ride to Patti's 1880s Settlement for dinner.  This restaurant has won many dining awards and is noted for its fabulous pies and desserts, and its huge pork chop dinner.  Dave and I share the pork chop and take a piece of Patti's famous lemon meringue pie home.  It's a great evening.

Patti's 1880s Settlement

Table 1 of Loopers

Table 2 of Loopers

We spend the next 3 days at GTB.  On Friday, I visit the Jade & Earth spa for a haircut and a pedicure.  What's better than that?!

They even serve libations.

Relaxing at the spa

During our stay at GTB, we share docktails, go into town for provisions, shop, visit the Thirsty Turtle, and on Saturday, we enjoy four hours of swimming and relaxing with fellow loopers in a pontoon boat on Kentucky Lake.  On Saturday evening we enjoy dinner at the Commonwealth Yacht Club and then it's home and off to bed.  Tomorrow we will be leaving for our side-trip to Nashville, TN.

Relaxing on Kentucky Lake

Captain Cawley at the helm

Mabel is enjoying herself aboard the pontoon boat.

Swimming in Kentucky Lake
Dave and I are in the background

August 27, 2017

We depart from GTB at 6:00 am.  It will take us two days to get to Nashville, TN which is located at mile marker 190.5.    

Sunrise at Green Turtle Bay

Today we are headed for the town of Clarkesville, TN which is about halfway. Our journey is uneventful and we arrive at the Clarkesville Marina at 5:30 pm.  This is a very quiet marina.  The charge is $1.00/ft with a $5.00 charge for electricity, but since we are members of Towboat US we receive a 25% discount.  Our charge for the night is just $33.75.....what a bargain! 

Clarkesville Marina & Liberty Park

Route to Nashville, TN

August 28-August 30, 2017

We leave Clarkesville Marina & Liberty Park at 7:00 am.  It will be about a 60 mile day with one lock, but we are still traveling against the current.  The passage is quite scenic with cliffs and forests as well as many beautiful homes.  We pass through the Cheatham Lock & Dam where we are lifted 26'.  We have been trying to make docking arrangements at Riverfront Park in Nashville, TN for the next three nights, but the process has proven to be extremely frustrating.  After leaving several phone messages as well as emails since Saturday, we still have not heard from the park service which manages the docks.  All reservations and payments must be made via phone as no one is on site in the park.  I finally reach someone at Hamilton Creek Marina and he gives me the cell phone of Russell, the harbormaster who proves to be anything but helpful.  I call Hamilton Marina once more, and Ron tells me he will try to help us even though it is not his job and has never handled reservations at Riverfront Park.  An hour later, he calls me back.  He is able to take my information over the phone and gives us a confirmation number to display on the boat and the code numbers for the gate.  Thank you, Ron.  He was most helpful.  The protocol in place for dock space here is definitely not user friendly. Besides "At Last", the only boats on the dock are a fire boat and a police boat.  We are docked on the east bank of the river in front of Nissan Stadium, the home of the Tennessee Titans. Although the west bank docking is more convenient to the city, it is closed until further notice. However, there is a pedestrian bridge close by and walking into the city is easy.  

"At Last" on the east bank in Nashville

View of Nashville's west bank from "At Last"

Nissan Stadium:  Home of the Tennessee Titans

Pedestrian bridge at night

Nashville at night

Dancing Ghosts sculpture in front of Nissan Stadium

August 29, 2017

We are up bright and early Tuesday morning.  It is foggy, but the forecast is for sunshine.  

Nashville on a foggy morning

Dave scrubs the decks and I clean the boat and wash the floors.  After lunch, we walk into the city to explore the "music capital of the world".  We pass by many honky tonks and enjoy hearing every type of music as we walk along...country, of course, but also blues, jazz, and pop.  We have a drink on the roof top of Acme, a former feed store, which is now an eclectic restaurant and then it's back to the boat.  

"At Last" as seen from the pedestrian bridge

The famous Printer's Alley

A selfie with Elvis

Marriage anyone?

Bargains and Specials!

Old-fashioned shoe shine on the street

Nathan arrives at around 5:00 pm.  We visit for a while and then head back over the pedestrian bridge to meet Sandra, Dave's former sister-in-law, and our nephew Mike and his wife Allison for dinner. They all live in the Nashville area.  We have a great meal at the Pharmacy and spend time visiting. After dinner and conversation, Mikey gives us a ride back to the boat and then it's off to bed.  What an awesome evening!

Dinner at the Pharmacy with family

August 30, 2017

We have a quiet morning.  Dave and Nathan head to Best Buy to get Dave's birthday gift, a DJI Mavic Pro drone.  Do you think he likes it?  

Happy Birthday, Dave!

Kevin, Dave's brother, arrives on his motorcycle from Knoxville, just as Dave and Nathan return.   We have a nice afternoon visiting.  About 4:00 pm, a 300 ft. LST (Landing Ship Troops) ship arrives and docks behind us.  This is a traveling museum.  It was used in WWII during the invasion of Normandy.  When it was decommissioned, it was sold to Greece.  It was bought back by a foundation who refurbished it and turned it into a floating museum. The ship is huge. 

300 ft. LST Floating Museum

As it is docking, a tow, the Traci K, brings a barge that will serve as the loading and unloading platform for those visiting the ship.  The captain of the tow is quite rude.  He wants Dave to move our boat forward.  However, we have been told that there is an underwater obstruction in front of us on the dock and Dave has no intention of moving. The tow captain rudely tells Dave, "It's your boat, brother.  Leave it where it is if you don't care if I hit you!"  He has plenty of room and is able to off load his barge without a problem.  He just didn't want to have to work hard to do it.  

The Traci-K 

We enjoy some QACs (Quiet Afternoon Cocktails) and snacks. Later we have a meal of stuffed peppers and cheese ravioli for dinner.  Unfortunately, Nathan heads back to Alabama at around 8:30 pm.  It has been great to see him.  

August 31 and September 1, 2017

Today we are leaving Nashville.  We will be retracing our steps for the next two days and are planning to go to Clarkesville Marina for the night and then back to Green Turtle Bay for a couple of days.  After that we will head to Chattanooga.  We wake to gray skies and a very rainy weather forecast.  This part of the country is expected to encounter the remnants of Hurricane Harvey.  The wind is supposed to pick up and torrential rains are forecast. Kevin and Dave walk into the city for breakfast, while I straighten the boat and get ready for our departure.  After breakfast, Kevin gets ready to leave.  He is riding his bike to Texas for a couple of weeks.  We are glad he has been able to stop by and visit with us.  We hope to catch up with him again in October in Alabama before he returns to Afghanistan.  The rain has stopped for now and we depart from Riverfront Park at about 9:15 am.  The ride is gray and dreary, but we escape rain for most of the day.  Also, we are now headed downstream, so the current is with us and our speed is much better than on our way to Nashville. We arrive at the Cheatham Lock and Dam at 1:25 pm and complete the locking process at 1:55 pm.  As soon as we leave the lock, the heavy rains start.  We arrive at the marina around 3:30 pm.  Tim helps us onto the dock.  While Dave sees to a pump out, I change the bed and do a load of laundry.  We enjoy chili for dinner.  Nothing beats having a freezer on board.  The rain is unending throughout the night and there are several tornado watches and warnings posted in nearby counties. We wake to torrential rains with no end in sight.  As the sun rises, we can see that the water has already risen several feet, with more flooding expected.  We decide to stay put and wait until the weather clears before we continue our journey. The marina tells us we are welcome to stay and they do not charge us for the night.  

Rising Water

The ramp is underwater when we awake.

The water continues to rise throughout the day.

By 4:00 pm only the top 6 steps are visible above the water.

What's wrong with this picture?

Debris in the Water

Dave and I spend a lazy day.  He studies how to use his new drone and I read, work on the blog and play scrabble.  By 3:00 pm,  the water in the marina has risen 6-7 ft. and it is expected the waters will continue to rise. The marina shuts off its electricity at about 3 pm as their electrical boxes will be under water soon. The marina is very well protected, but it is expected that water will be released from the Cheatham Dam which will cause higher waters. We will decide tomorrow whether we will continue or wait another day.  We know there will be lots of debris in the river, but the winds are expected to calm down with less rain.  We are in no hurry, so we will wait until it is safe to travel. Tomorrow is Dave's birthday!!!!!